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Searching for some old hutongs around Shichahai area, we wandered in a maze of Si-He-Yuans which linked us to one hutong to another. Though we were lost, the experience of being secluded was peaceful. Such were the effect of the enclosed walls which afforded some degree of privacy and calm. We felt like we were miles away from the city’s bustle.

Strangers looked at us with curious eyes while they performed their daily rituals within these spot-stained, ancient walls. I felt comfortable that no one was bugging me to buy anything. I was actually pleased to be ignored. With that, we continued this little tour of ours quietly under their silent watch.

I saw cute, grubby kids with rosy cheeks playing along the alley.  They looked happy. I saw old folks sitting leisurely on rattan chairs staring into space. Some looked happy. Some not so. Then there was an old men smoking from a pipe, a cobbler and a fruit vendor with her three-wheeled cart. The air had a faint scent of freshly baked bread, coal and raw meat. Weird mix but it wasn’t unpleasant. As I made our way through these narrow walkways, I got more intrigued by the way the poorest in Beijing live their lives. At each sharp turn which twist and turn with no rhyme or reason, I can never foresee what lies around each corner and that was the thrill of exploring a hutong.

Before wide boulevards and high rise apartments, almost all the folks in Beijing live in these narrow alleys called hutongs. Along these alleys lies the courtyard houses which then link up and form a network of hutongs. I peered into one of the courtyard house and found that while the exterior were preserved, the clear cut design of a Si-He-Yuan was totally messed up inside. Sadly, there seem to be ugly extensions of all sorts in the house and the original structures have been lost in almost every case. Messy. Ugly. Sad. The fact that almost all hutong residents don’t see their neighborhoods as historic districts is disheartening.

Originally designed as a building complex formed by four houses around a quadrangular courtyard, it was meant to house one family! But the 1950s went awry for the Chinese if you knew what happened. Since then, most of the Si-He-Yuan were converted to house several families as tenants. That probably explains the overcrowding and unsightly extensions. What a pity! Really hope the preservation works will turn out well.

Sorry no pictures here. I hid our camera as I wandered along these old lanes because this residential estate felt so private and exclusive. Snapping pictures just felt so awkward! Took the extra care not to be rude and invade the locals’ private spaces. Ah it was extremely fascinating to wander through the maze of old Beijing! Do take a walk along these hidden paths if you’re not afraid of getting lost!

In any case, the hutong today is fading into the shade for both tourists and inhabitants. Out from the maze, we strolled along the riverbank of Houhai where the more tourists-targeted shops, restaurant and hangouts are located. I must say that I had more fun exploring the maze of old hutong neighborhoods than shopping at the touristy haunts in the same area.

Here are some pictures.

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The setting looked like a movie set!

Was getting bored of this Clarke Quay lookalike place until we chanced upon a rundown eatery that proudly displayed a ‘China’s Time Honoured Brand’ at its entrance. This dilapidated shack is a gem.

Good thing all of us are feeling adventurous! We ordered 2 plates of odd-looking snacks and a bottle of Tsing Dao to share. That mass of black stuff is fried pork tripes while the white one should be boiled sheep innards.

Both are springy and chewy. Too bad if you’re into innards. These wobbly pieces of protein goes really well with the peanut sauce!

Lots of love to Hao, Libei, Betty, Zhenyi, Sirui, Isaac, Ruth and Shuyan. I miss all of you loads!

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I have no idea how many time I’ve said this but I’m gonna say it again! I love Beijing! This beautiful city is one of the world’s most important historical site. Don’t you agree that is exudes a unique ambience balancing ancient and modern? But it takes hard work to keep a balance between these two extremes. As Beijing gets giddy with the rest of China to rapidly urbanised, it is saddening to know that the atmospheric hutong lanes, traditional residential homes and Si-He-Yuan courtyard houses all are fast disappearing. So you better start making plans if you want to catch a glimpse of Beijing’s past.

To get to Shichahai area: take bus 60, 13, 118, 701, 42, 823 to the north gate of Beihai Park. You”l see the Lotus Market. The entrance of the Shichahai area is just right opposite.

When an ex-girlfriend pulled the plug on our much treasured group of 7, I fled to the Great Wall in my dreams. This trip came unexpectedly and was not meant to be. I needed a dose of serenity and prayed that the strong winds would blow her far away from us. Thankfully everything still looked the same up here. Changes could be so excruciating.

Grand. Arresting. Towering.

Scaling the wall’s steep, crumbling steps now brings new meaning after I withstood the pangs of adversity with my girlfriends. That was nothing we’ve ever encountered throughout our years of friendship.

It was shocking how much similarity our decade-old friendship share with the Great Wall’s history of more than 2000 years. Though some of the wall’s sections are now in ruins or have disappeared, it is still so appealing and attractive. It all boils down to its historical significance. Much the same, our history is priceless.

I was at Badaling. Thrown with an option of going either left or right, I took the route on my left which offers a more challenging hike up the wall and kept walking until it was not possible to walk any further. I thought that the steep mountain slope and torturous roads were awesome because it was these features that made it a stronghold. Yeah we are flawed and that made our journey steep and torturous as well. But what’s our weakness when our strengths could easily support and protected each other from harm.

Win was right. We’ve gone through obstacles together, not in person, but in our hearts. Our love proved bigger than any obstacle and dearest, I am so honoured and proud of this too!

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Building this great wall is not an easy feat nor it was done in a day. Though it is easy to take pleasure of each other’s company, we never had any difficulty seeing the point of considering friendship in terms of common moral commitments. Ling reminded me that though we are far away in distance, yet we commit ourselves to be always be close at heart. Friends are VERY HARD to come by. Good ones, even harder. Best friends for more than 10 years, fucking miracle!

I think best friends comes with an eager readiness, and an absence of hesitation. We shall have the courage to give advice with candour. With that common understanding, we can conquer any walls together.

Aristotle told me.

“such friendships are rare is natural, because men of this kind are few. And in addition they need time and intimacy; for as the saying goes, you cannot get to know each other until you have eaten the proverbial quantity of salt together. Nor can one man accept another, or the two become friends, until each has proved to the other that he is worthy of love, and so won his trust. Those who are quick to make friendly advances to each other have the desire to be friends, but they are not unless they are worthy of love and know it. The wish for friendship develops rapidly, but friendship does not.”

Point taken. Her unworthy reasons for departure has brought to mind a memory. Someone once told me that in friendship and relationship, those who possess any superiority must put themselves on an equal footing with those who are less fortunate, so these latter must not be annoyed at being surpassed in genius, fortune, or rank. As women, we were held to be more articulate and emotionally accomplished. Clearly, we must had been too overwhelming.

My hazy romantic visions has turned into a vivid reality just as the chilling winds wailed alarmingly. The Great Wall transformed into a red dragon, winding its way along the mountain ranges. The blustery sky cleared. I now have great better visibility and that’s going to make the climbing, even the steep parts, easier. I’m no longer dreaming.

We all are happy once again. Without her, things still won’t change. We are who we are and that’s what we love about each other.

I quote from Win “we will stand together, even more, even stronger than before. we’ve done it for over a decade. we can do it for another decade, and the next, and the next…. and so on.” and yes Elaine, you are my life too. I will make sure all your kids laugh over our silly escapades.

My ladies, cheers to infinity and beyond!

Many thanks to Amanda, Daniel, Sidney, Nicole, Marcky, Nic, David, Lina, Dom, Mel and Chiang Wey for the support. Y0u peeps are angels.